Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide puts a typical solar repair between $250 and $1,500, with most solar pros charging a minimum of $100 to $250 to come out. Inverter replacement runs higher, about $1,500 to $3,000 by the same guide. Your written estimate after the diagnosis is the actual price.

Yes. Some rooftop systems in the area were put in by companies that are no longer in business. We work with the equipment that is on your roof and, where a manufacturer warranty still applies, can document the failure for the claim.

Common causes are a failed microinverter or optimizer, an inverter that has faulted or is overheating, a tripped breaker, a damaged connector or wire, heavy dust or droppings, and new shade from a growing tree. Panels also lose a small amount of output with age. A visit with readings at the inverter and each string narrows it down.

Often, yes. Panels usually outlast the inverter, so replacing one failed component can bring a 10 or 12 year old system back to normal output for far less than a new array. If the numbers do not work, we will tell you.

SRP asks that changes to an approved system be submitted as a change request through its PowerClerk portal, with revised documents. We check what applies to your job and handle that step with you. APS customers have their own process, which we confirm before work starts.

It depends on the work. Swapping like-for-like parts may be treated differently from replacing an inverter or reinstalling an array. We check with the Town of Gilbert's permitting staff, or the county outside town limits, before scheduling, and include any permit cost on the estimate.

HomeGuide suggests inspection and cleaning once or twice a year for most homes, and more often in dry, dusty places. After a monsoon dust storm, a look at your production numbers will tell you whether a wash is worth it.

HomeGuide puts string inverters at 10 to 15 years and microinverters at 15 to 25 years. Heat shortens life, so placement and shade matter in Gilbert.

Often, yes, as long as the new unit matches the array's voltage and current and works with any optimizers already installed. A brand change may need updated utility paperwork.

Not necessarily. Inverters reduce output or shut down to protect themselves when they get too hot. If it recovers in the evening, placement and airflow may be the real issue.

A single failed micro costs less than a whole string inverter, but each one requires getting under a panel. HomeGuide notes microinverter systems cost 15% to 25% more than string systems overall, while their units tend to last longer.

Turn the system off at its AC and DC disconnects if you can do so safely, keep people away from the unit, and call us. Do not open the cover.

That depends mostly on the roof work. Removal and reinstall each usually take a day or two for a typical home; the gap between is the roofer's schedule plus any inspection.

Yes, the system produces nothing while it is down, so your utility bill will rise for that period. Scheduling roof work in the cooler months reduces the hit.

Some roofers do, but disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical side is solar work, and a mistake on reinstall can show up as a leak or a dead string months later. Ask who is responsible if either happens.

Racking is often reusable. Roof attachments and flashing are usually replaced so they seal properly to the new underlayment.

If the inverter or microinverters are near the end of their life, doing it now avoids another trip onto the roof. We will show you test results so you can decide.

We use clips made to attach to panel frames without drilling, which is the method meant to avoid damaging the module. If you are unsure about your specific warranty terms, check with the panel manufacturer.

Spikes and decoys may move birds around for a while, but they do not close the space under the panels, which is what pigeons want. Mesh is the fix for that space.

They can. Nesting material traps debris and moisture, birds may pick at wiring, and droppings on the glass shade cells and lower output.

Most homes take a single day. A heavy infestation with a lot of debris, or a large array, can take longer.

Compare production for the same month in different years, on sunny days. A drop of more than a few percent from one year to the next, under similar weather, is worth checking.

Often the system is fine and the monitoring connection is broken, from a router change or a failed gateway. The inverter display or your utility meter can confirm.

Yes, slowly. All panels lose a small amount of output each year. A sudden drop is not aging; it is usually a failed component, a wiring fault or shade.

It can. On plans with demand charges or low export credits, when you use power matters a lot. Measuring production directly tells us which it is.

Yes. We test at the inverter and on the roof, and can often add or restore monitoring so you can track it afterward.

The panels themselves do not, but the holes made to mount them can if they were not flashed and sealed correctly. Properly installed mounts keep the roof dry.

Some roofers prefer not to work around live solar equipment. We can handle both the panel side and the mount sealing, or remove panels so your roofer can work.

Small gaps can stay dry through light rain. Heavy, wind-driven monsoon rain pushes water sideways under tile and into weak spots that normally stay dry.

Yes. Wet insulation and drywall can lead to mold and ceiling damage. Note the size of the stain, take a photo, and call for an inspection soon.

Once or twice a year suits most homes, with an extra wash after a dust storm if production drops. Your monitoring is the best guide.

Light rain often makes dust worse by turning it into a film. Heavy rain helps, but Gilbert gets only about 9 inches a year.

No. High pressure can damage the glass coating and force water past seals. Soft brushes and low-pressure water are safer.

Using harsh chemicals or abrasive tools can. Check your panel manufacturer's cleaning guidance; gentle washing with water is the usual recommendation.